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'My Friend Drojti Was Stationed At The Brook Tunnel That Connects To Our Hydroelectric Power Station When The Serbs Came Thru It,' Declared Our Host, Ante.
While the US marks 10 years after the attacks in NY that led to two wars and fundamental changes in how Americans view their security, Croatia solemnly remembers the 1991 incursion of Serbian troops and shelling of one of their most beloved towns, Dubrovnik. That started a two-year war all alone soil.
"My buddy Drojti was stationed at the river tunnel that connects to our hydroelectric power station when the Serbs came through it," recounted our host, Ante. "He ran down the hill, leapt into the sea and swam the 20 kilometers to the old town.
"The people who could not leave Dubrovnik went into the old city because they thought that the Serbs would never attack it," Ante continued, with sourness in his voice. "But over two thousand shells struck the city, and 68 % of the buildings had damage, some absolutely gutted by fire."
As Cheri and I walked through the ancient town, over stone streets that were laid centuries gone, it was tough to picture the elimination. Only when we saw the Serbian TV photographs did the actuality sink in. Now, lovingly and exactly rebuilt, Dubrovnik is once more a fabulous illustration of medieval life. And families still live there, doing almost all of the same things they did long ago. Only now, the Universal Teenager can be found even here. While Ante gave us a personal history lesson, a group of young people walked noisily by, dressed pretty much the same as in the US, earbuds plugged into their smartphones, laughing at us tourists.
"What's the economy like now?" I asked Ante.
"Not so good," he responded. "After the war, we had to rebuild our industry, but plenty of our people had sold their property and left to the U.S, to New Zealand, England and other places. Many houses were abandoned. After ten years, things started to enhance because Continentals began to build homes here, start companies, and tourists returned. Then in 2008, the worldwide industrial recession just put everything into reverse. Tourism is just starting to improve. But we need different sources of industry."
I thought about the population emigrating, guessing that a lot of them would be younger folk, those who hadn't started a family. Taking a look at the shocking natural beauty of the Dalmatian coast, I could see it was a place of great nourishment for the adult soul and truly uninteresting for kids.
Ante confirmed this was indeed the case.
"Our youth aren't staying in enough numbers to make our future growth," he said. "Many of them are getting degrees in economics and business, but there are few growing industries here to employ them."
This same story was repeated by Samoj (he loved to be called "Sam"), a man we shared drinks and a table with in Korcula, another walled town on an island of the same name further north. Sam is a Slovenian, trained as an attorney and historian, working for a research institute in his home country of about 3,000,000 people. We were fortunate to have such a credible source of info, and we made use of it.
"So, Sam, what was the civil war about?" I asked. "It was portrayed by our media as an ethnic war, that so-called ethnic 'cleansing ' was what the Serbians were after."
Sam explained, "Well, in actual fact Serbs, Slovenians, Croats and Bosnians are ethnically identical. We share the same ancient roots going back to the time of the Illyrians who formed the 1st regional identity beyond small clans about three thousand years back. The conflict goes back to when the Roman Empire split up and was split between an eastern area and a western one. When that happened, Catholicism under a Roman pope dominated the western empire, while the Eastern Orthodox Church was paramount in what came to be called the Byzantine Empire. The orthodox faith doesn't recognise the pope as the illustration of Jesus ' church, the priests can marry, and the sacraments are different, among many other things. Slovenia and Croatia are on the west side of the dividing line. The Serbian aggression was actually about spiritual 'cleansing, ' and of course, it was about money."
"How did economics play into the war?" I asked.
"Under Tito, when we were all one country, there had been typically equality across the bigger nation," Sam expounded. "But the area of Slovenia was the economic powerhouse. We had a tiny fraction of the total population, but we were the source of 30 % of Yugoslavia's gross domestic product. Croatia had the beautiful coast and many pretty islands where ancient villages still prospered. Croatia was the holiday maker mecca for Yugoslavians and many European countries on each side of the Iron Curtain. Ever since Yugoslavia was first made after World War I, the Serbians, who were the most in number, wished to exercise the greatest power over the course of the country. When Tito died, Serbian ambitions re-emerged, and their need to control the 2 richest areas of the old Yugoslavia drove them to attack when Slovenia and Croatia announced their independence."
It occurred to me as I listened to Sam that Jesus would find it sad if he knew that in the name of claiming sole rights to his legacy, envious people would attempt to take away what others had out of envy and gluttony. Maybe he does know as reported tagza.com.
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